Culture, Curls, & Confidence: Why I Love the Natural Hair Movement

By: Taria Pritchett of Regal Realness

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I love the natural hair movement! It is a new phenomenon that has completely shifted the way many women of color care for their hair. It reminds me of the 1970’s and 1980’s during the Black Power and Black Feminist movements. It certainly has its pros and its cons. Some women may feel left out if they are relaxed, or kinks may seem more valued than curls, society may turn up their noses at the site of a tight curl, transitioning without a big chop can be a ball of frustration, and family members may not embrace twist outs and other protective styles as ‘good enough’. But, despite the many reservations women have about the natural hair revolution there are many reasons why I, a relaxed but soon-to be- transitioner, love this movement:

1. It Inspires and Sparks Creativity
All of the gorgeous photos I see on a daily basis, and the level of confidence that these women have is inspiring! It also motivates other black women to give it a try, and it gives them a visual of results. It makes a relaxed girl consider going natural just by seeing just how healthy, long, and versatile black hair can really be. Additionally, it can shift a girl’s confidence and personal style just by changing her hair! It brings a level of creativity that often gets buried in the normal hustle and bustle of life.

2. It Takes Us Back To Our Roots (Literally!)
Deciding to embark on a healthy hair journey whether relaxed or natural really allows women to learn about themselves, and in the process brings them closer to their culture. By learning about your hair consequently your learning about a part of you that is historical and traditional. It connects Black women back to their culture and roots. It brings a new sense of freedom, especially when getting the big chop or surviving the transition phase. Black hair is political whether we want to admit or not. It makes a statement regardless of our intentions, but most importantly it shouts to the world that you are not afraid to be your true, authentic self. Embracing your hair is embracing your cultural background too believe it or not.

3. It Brings Black Women Together
So many women have started blogs, written books, started online communities, made websites, started Youtube channels, created products, and Facebook pages to share their hair journey and for Black women to come together. It has unified so many women, where in recent years the media has focused on how much Black women don’t get along or are always competing. Instead, this hair movement brings women together! Even teaching one another about our hair, and showing our hair regimens and products we use is a sign of bringing our knowledge back to the community for purposes of advancement, growth, and connection. It will completely change the next generation of black girl’s education about hair care. 

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4. It Promotes a Healthy Lifestyle
Healthy hair is a measure of its care similar to how our bodies operate. The natural hair movement promotes use of natural products, but it also promotes Black women to adopt healthier lifestyle choices as well in regards to taking vitamins, eating balanced meals, drinking water (our hair needs it especially), and moving more! This movement promotes healthy living which is always a debate for African American women as we are more obese then other groups, and more susceptible to diseases such as heart disease and diabetes. Adopting new healthy eating habits along with a healthy hair regimen can not only help your body, but make your hair grow healthier and longer, a win-win on both ends.

5. It Promotes Black Owned Businesses
Many women who have educated themselves thoroughly, and have been through trial and errors with hair regimens and products have opted to make their own products. As a result, a number of African American women have created healthier, natural hair products, specifically for African American hair. The great part is that Black women are trying these products out and supporting Black owned businesses which always seem to be a struggle in the Black community. This movement has ushered in new ways of supporting and promoting black owned and operated businesses.

Whether relaxed or natural—you could benefit from this movement. This movement has totally shifted how we view hair, style, health, and culture.

Is there anything I missed? Why do you love the natural hair movement?

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The 411 on Biotin for Healthy Hair by Tanya Walters

We at deNaturalistas LOVE to get a guest blog post from one of our favorite deNaturalistas and reknown sister loctitianm, Tanya Walters, of BeautiLocs by Tanya.   Enjoy her insight on the benefits of taking Biotin as a supplement.  Take it away Tanya! :

Oftentimes, clients come to me with hair growth issues. The reasons are many … sometimes they are growing out relaxers, sometimes medication has taken their hair out, sometimes they have (or someone else has) unintentionally damaged their hair, and sometimes it is the result of poor nutrition.

As we all know, the food we eat provides us with vitamins which keep us healthy. Therefore, the diet you follow plays a very important role in keeping your hair in good condition. If you do not receive all the vitamins you need with your daily food intake, you may begin experiencing hair problems. Sometimes, those who eat a good balance of vitamins have other health issues that can hamper the distribution of vitamins in your body, which may result in your body not being able to absorb nutrients properly.  So review your food regimen with a health care professional before actually using any specific supplement to promote hair growth. There are many vitamin supplements available on the market that you can use to get the proper amount of vitamins every day. Taking vitamins in larger quantities than needed may also have negative effects on your health.

Biotin, a member of the B-vitamin family, is a naturally occurring substance found in the body. Its purpose is to strengthen muscles, bones, tissues hair and other cells. So this helps to keep your hair thick, healthy and of course, maintain its’ growth. The relationship between biotin and hair loss is being studied as a way of regenerating thinning, weak or brittle hair in men and in women.

 You must get enough biotin in your daily intake to prevent hair loss and to increase the growth of new hair. If you are experiencing thinning hair, make sure your nutritional intake includes liver, sardines, salmon, egg yolks, and beer yeast. Plant sources of biotin are cauliflower, bananas, carrots, beans and mushrooms.  Foods rich in biotin and/or biotin supplements may be just what you need to restore your hair.

Disclaimer: It is advisable to consult a physician before starting a vitamin supplement program.

Tanya Walters RN is a certified Sisterlocks Consultant located in the Bear, Delaware area.  Visit her online at www.locjewls.com, sisterlocs@comcast.net or by phone at (302) 981-6580.

Safiya invites her viewers to join the I Declare Healthy Hair Challenge with the deNaturalistas

I Declare Healthy Hair Challenge: Week 1

As I write this, I'm watching The Sing Off on NBC and sitting with a three-shopping-bagged-secured head full of homemade deep conditioner.  It consists of the following: avacodo, banana, mayonaisse, honey, yogurt, apple cider vinegar and a host of carrier oils (olive, almond, apricot, sunflower and coconut).   We're working on hour two of the deep conditioner.  Today is Week 1, Day 1 of the I Declare Healthy Hair Challenge presented by the deNaturalistas.  I'm working on bottle four of spring water, I popped three hair pills this morning, actually took the time to cook dinner at home (pan-seared sesame seed tuna, whole wheat noodles and asparagus) <--- oh yeah, the girl is BAD!  AND swear I'm going to fit in a 30-minute quick Exercise TV workout before I rinse this conditioner out.   Shewwww ---- OK, I digress!

Each week with the I.D.H.H.C. we will introduce a new component to fundamentally focus on, so that the challenge stays interesting.  So atop all 11 official I DECLARE rules to stay in good challenge grace, Week 1 is dedicated to: UNDERSTANDING YOUR HAIR!  To help with this our very own Nicole Scarborough, founder and owner of Get Twysted, a natural hair salon in New Castle, Delaware has graciously decided to offer all deNaturalistas a $10.00 hair consultation AND 10% off a hair appointment booked after the consultation.  Visit http://www.justbraidsbynicole.com/ for more info or call (302) 419-7128.

In order to Understand Your Hair, we'd like for you to REALLY take the time to get to know your hair tresses intimately.  For those of you who hide your natural under weaves or only allow your personal hair stylist to touch your coife, this may be a little difficult.  That's why this is a challenge ... it won't be EASY. 



Learn the following things about your hair:

1. What is your hair texture? (fine, medium or coarse)

       Hair texture is the measure of the circumference of the hair strand itself. Professionals classify the texture of hair as being "coarse", "fine", or "medium". Coarse hair has the largest circumference, and fine hair has the smallest. Medium texture indicates a middle-range of the size of the hair shaft, it's considered normal and poses no special considerations regarding processing and chemical services. Coarse hair is stronger, for obvious reasons - it has more substance. However, coarse hair can also be harder to process, and can be resistant to haircoloring services, perming, and straightening. Fine hair, conversely, is often very easy to process, and can be over-processed easily and is susceptible to damage from chemical services.
Hair texture varies from individual to individual, and can be different in separate areas of the same head. You may have coarse hair on the top of the head and fine hair at the nape of the neck. Race and ethnicity are irrelevant in determining hair texture, as coarse, medium and fine hair can be found among all racial and ethnic groups.

 

2. What is your hair wave pattern or type? (straight, wavy, curly or kinky)

Type 1a - Straight (Fine/Thin) - Hair tends to be very Soft, Shiny, difficult to hold a curl, hair also tends to be oily, and difficult to damage.
Type 1b - Straight (Medium) - Hair has lots of volume & body.
Type 1c - Straight (Coarse) - Hair is normally bone straight and difficult to Curl. Asian women usually fall into this category.
Type 2a - Wavy (Fine/Thin) - Hair has a definite "S" pattern. Normally can accomplish various styles.
Type 2b - Wavy (Medium) - Hair tends to be frizzy, and a little resistant to styling.

Type 2c - Wavy (Coarse) - Hair is also resistant to styling and normally very frizzy;tends to have thicker waves.
Type 3a - Curly (Loose Curls) - Hair tends to have a combination texture. It can be thick & full with lots of body, with a definite "S" pattern. It aslo tends to be frizzy.
Type 3b - Curly (Tight Curls) - Also tends to have a combination texture, with a medium amount of curl.
Type 4a - Kinky (Soft) - Hair tends to be very Fragile, tightly coiled, and has a more defined curly pattern.
Type 4b - Kinky (Wiry) - Also very fragile and tightly coiled; however with a less defined curly pattern -has more of a "Z" pattern shape.

3. What is your hair density? (thin, medium or thick)

 Hair density is the amount of hair strands on the head. Generally, it is measured by counting the number of hair strands found in one square inch (2.5cm) of scalp. When a stylist tells you that you have thick hair, it is high density he/she is describing. Generally, the classifications of hair density are thin, medium, and thick, and are unrelated to the texture of the hair. The average head has approximately 2,200 strands of hair per square inch, and a total of approximately 100,000 hairs. The main consideration of hair density is in styling. Thick hair is well suited to layered styles, while thin hair is often better suited to more blunt styles. People with thin hair often prefer styles with added curl to give an illusion of more hair. While there is not a true ethnic or racial determiner of hair density, it has been found that blondes tend to have the greatest hair density, while redheads have the lowest.

4. What is your hair porosity? (low, medium, high)

 Porosity is the measure of the hair's ability to absorb moisture. This is determined by the condition of the hair's cuticle layer (the overlapping scales of the hair shaft), and is rated as low, normal, and high. In normal, healthy hair, the cuticle is compact and inhibits the penetration of the hair shaft by moisture - both moisture going in, and moisture coming out. When the cuticle is overly compact and prevents the penetration of the hair by moisture it has low porosity. Hair with low porosity is harder to process, and is resistant to haircolor and perms. Low porosity hair must usually be softened prior to other chemical services. Hair with high porosity is hair whose cuticle layer is open and the hair too-readily absorbs moisture. Overly-porous hair also releases moisture easily and becomes dry and is easily damaged. Acid-balanced conditioning treatments are used to contract the cuticle layer and lock-in moisture on overly-porous hair. Extreme caution must be used when performing chemical services on overly porous hair to prevent damage. Haircolor will take much more quickly and strongly in overly porous hair (and semi-permanent and demi-permanent haircolors will fade much more quickly). Perms and straighteners will process much faster in high-porosity hair as well. To determine the porosity of your hair, simply feel it - both when wet and when dry. If the hair feels straw-like and rough when dry, or if it feels gummy or slightly rubbery when wet, then you probably have a problem with overly porous hair.
 

5. What is your hair elasticity? (low, normal, high)

The hair's elasticity is the measure of how much the hair will stretch (and return to a normal state). Healthy hair, when wet, will stretch up to 50% of its original length and return to its normal shape without breaking, while dry hair will only stretch about 20%. Elasticity is rated as being low, normal, or high. Hair's elasticity comes from the side bonds in the hair shaft. Hair with normal and high elasticity is easily styled with wet-roller sets, thermal styling tools, etc., while hair with low elasticity may prove hard to curl, or lose its curl quickly. To test the elasticity of your hair, you need to select strands of hair from four different areas on the head. Be sure the hair is wet. Hold the strand securely and stretch the hair. If the hair stretches and returns to its original length when released, then it has good elasticity. If the hair breaks or doesn't return to its former shape, you have low elasticity. Hair with low elasticity is highly susceptible to breakage, will be hard to curl, and will not perm well.

The source of a portion of the above information regarding Understanding Your Hair is http://www.hairfinder.com/

deNATURALISTAS presents: I DECLARE HEALTHY HAIR CHALLENGE

 CALLING ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLL Naturalistas!

Join Tywanda Howie and Latoya Watson, founders of deNaturalistas as they present, "I DECLARE HEALTHY HAIR CHALLENGE" that begins today, Monday, October 10, 2011 and runs until December 31, 2011.

The deNaturalistas are challenging the natural hair community to join them in its quest to achieve healthy hair from October 10, 2011 to December 31, 2011.  The following is a GUIDELINE to personally assist you in attaining your individual hair goals.  This document does not have to be followed religiously, but may be used as a helpful toolkit to accompany your journey!  If you have any current chronic medical conditions, please consult a doctor before making adaptations to your regular diet and exercise routine. Each week a new component will be added to the challenge with a few mini-natural hair meet-ups along the journey. Find us at www.denaturalistas.com, follow us on Twitter @denaturalistas or join our group on FB at Delaware Naturalistas: Embracing Kinks, Locs and Curls to stay updated!

 

1.       I declare that I will trim the ends of my hair to rid split ends, heat damage, knots, etc. during the first week and last week of the challenge.

2.       I declare that I will take a hair vitamin supplement each day that includes a majority of the following ingredients:

·                         Biotin

·                         Copper

·                         Folic Acid

·                         Inositol

·                         Iron

·                         Niacin (B3)

·                         Pantothenic Acid (B5)

·                         Riboflavin (B2)

·                         Thiamin (B1)

·                         Vitamin A

·                         Vitamin B6

·                         Vitamin B12      

·                         Vitamin C

·                         Vitamin D

·                         Vitamin E

·                         Zinc

3.       I declare that I will not put any heat on my hair unless during the deep-conditioning process with a heating cap, heated towel, hooded dryer or Huetiful Steamer.

4.       I declare that I will create a detailed hair regimen that includes the following:

·                         A pre-cleansing  (a.k.a. pre-poo) treatment

·                         A sulfate-free shampoo

·                         A protein conditioner

·                         A leave-in conditioner

·                         A water-based moisturizer to hydrate daily

·                         An oil & butter-based moisturizer to seal daily

5.       I declare that I will not use any products that include the following ingredients:

·                         Lauryl Sulfate & Sodium Laureth Sulfate

·                         Mineral Oil

·                         Petroleum Jelly

·                         Cones (any ingredients ending with the suffix -cone)

·                         Parabens (any ingredients ending with the suffix -paraben)

·                         Isopropyl Alcohol

·                         Propylene Glycol and  Polyethylene Glycol

6.       I declare that I will protect my hair nightly by sleeping with a satin scarf, cap or pillowcase.

7.       I declare that I will drink a minimum of eight (8 ounce) cups of water per day.

8.       I declare that I will exercise a minimum of 3 to 5 times per week for at least 30 consecutive minutes.

9.       I declare that I will eat a minimum of 5 servings of fresh fruit and vegetables per day with at least 3 servings being vegetables.  I will also focus on the following hair super foods:

·                         Green leafy vegetables (spinach, kale, cabbage, collard greens)

·                         Carrots

·                         Fruits (apples, bananas, melons, berries and oranges)

·                         Eggs or Egg Whites

·                         Short-Grain Brown Rice

·                         Meats (chicken, turkey, beef, liver and salmon)

·                         Cheese

·                         Nuts (walnuts, almonds, brazil nuts)

·                         Legumes (kidney beans, lentils, black-eyed peas, lima beans, etc.)

·                         Low-fat Dairy Products (yogurt, milk, cottage cheese)

10.     I declare to use cautious, healthy hair maintenance techniques:

·                         After conditioning, I will rinse my hair with cold-water ONLY.

·                         I will dry my hair with a cotton T-shirt instead of a towel using minimal                friction.

·                         I will detangle my hair in its wet state only using a large-tooth comb or a Denman brush  while in the shower or with a conditioner that has slip.

·                         I will not do wash or shake-and-go's.

·                         I will not use any man-made chemicals to alter the natural state of my hair like relaxers, perms, texturizers  or hair coloring.

·                         I will style my hair in low-maintenance protective hair styles that protect my   hair follicles ESPECIALLY my ends such as coils, two-strand twists, etc

·      I will not get hair extensions such as micros, kinky twists, weaves or other         styles where additional hair is added and causes stress and tension on my hair follicles. I will opt for a wig if necessary.

11.    I declare that I LOVE and BELIEVE in myself and my abilities. I will try my hardest to live a more healthy, holistic lifestyle that will allow me to live long and strong with nothing wrong because I AM worth it!  If I ever doubt my ability I know that Philippians 4:13 states that, "I can do ALL THINGS through Christ which strengtheneth me."

 ©2011 by deNaturalistas, LLP, All Rights Reserved.  Unauthorized distribution of intellectual property is prohibited. 

Hair Vitamin Vixen

While often times naturalistas discuss the importance of finding phenomenal products to use externally to increase the well-being of their natural coif, equally and possibly what is more important is what you consume internally.  To aid in the overall health and care of your tresses, including a hair vitamin to your daily diet regimen proves to be extremely beneficial. 

Above, I've displayed a picture of my go-to hair vitamin of choice.  I purchase them at Trader Joe's for about $5.00.   It is a MultiVitamin Mineral that supports nails, hair and skin.  There are 100 tablets so it lasts me about one month (you need to take three per day). 

THEE most important thing about taking vitamins is CONSISTENCY.  I've read it takes AT LEAST 3 consistent months of taking any vitamin to see any true results and for it to thoroughly integrate into your body's system.  So keep at it!  Lastly, there are a few stellar vitamins that you want to see included in the hair vitamin that you select.  They are considered the all-star vitamin supplements that BEST benefit your hair:

• Vitamin A: assists in the production of natural oils (sebum) that prevent dry scalp 
• Vitamin B6: is a component in the creation of melanin; aids in giving hair its color
• Vitamin B12: prevents hair loss
• Vitamin C: an anti-oxidant; helps improve the overall health of hair
• Vitamin E: improves scalp circulation which stimulates faster hair growth
• Biotin: produces keratin; aids in the prevention of hair loss
• Niacin (B3): improves the blood circulation (which carries oxygen) at your scalp
• Inositol: keeps the cells of hair follicles healthy
• Pantothenic Acid (B5): prevents graying and hair loss

For more information on the daily dosage suggested and natural foods that include these vitamins, click here.

Straightening Your Natural Hair Sans a Blow Dryer

If I could, I would ... smash-up blowdryers.  I was never much of a fan of them --- even BEFORE going natural.  I always wrapped my freshly washed and conditioned permed hair up with a satin scarf and let it air dryer.  Blow Dryers equaled FRIZZY to me!

Enter March of 2010.  I had been without a perm for four months and had BC'd three months ago.  I wanted to try and straighten my newly natural hair for the first time so I figured I'd blow it dry and then flat iron it.  HUGE mistake.  I watched in horror as my little 3-C coils exploded like fireworks into the air as I attempted to pull, tug and manipulate my natural roots to get them dry.   I threw my blow dryer away on that day ---- and never looked back.

Here's a pic from August of 2010 (about three to four months of hair growth.) I was coming back from my 10-year high school reunion.

Now let's Fast Forward to August 2011.  I've been growing out my natural ( I huge out in the BC style for a few extra months before I started letting it grow in) for about 14 months uninterrupted.
I was ready to straighten it.  I don't straighten my hair OFTEN.  Maybe once a quarter ----seasonally. 

Many of you have asked me how do I straighten my natural hair ---- so here goes.

You will need the following products:
1. Trader Joe's Tingling Tea Tree Oil Shampoo
2. Giovanni Direct's Leave-In Conditioner and Leave-In Spray
3. Jojoba Oil
4. Grapeseed Oil

*Wash your hair with the shampoo and then detangle your hair from ends to root in the shower under the water stream.  Afterwards add a generous amount of Giovanni's Leave-In Conditioner and Leave-In Spray into your hair.  Continue to work it through and detangle by combing hair from ends to root with large tooth comb or shower comb.  Finish up by two-strand twisting your hair (approximately 20-25 twists).   After about two hours unravel the twists and let them continue to arrive dry for the rest of the day.   At night, it's time to straighten.

You will need the following hair styling tools:

1. A flat iron (mine gets no more than 200 degrees hot)
2. A 2 inch barrel curling iron
3. Duck Pins
4. Two combs (large tooth and rat tail)
5. A satin scarf

*Now that your hair is completely dry, take a pair of a two-strand twist out and comb from end to root with the large tooth comb.  After flat iron that piece from mid-point to end and then back from root all the way to end.  Repeat this method until all your hair has been flat ironed.  It's important not use high heat b/c with this method, I have no product on my hair except the Leave-In conditioners.  Use the duck clips to secure hair after you've straightened it.   When you're finish put a quarter size of both oils (grapeseed and jojoba) in your hand and distribute generously throughout your hair paying close attention to your ends.   Lastly, part hair diagonally in 3-inch. sections and curl hair with the 2-inch. curling iron.   Afterwards finger comb or use the large tooth comb to style hair.   That night wrap with satin cap and style as intended in the morning.

VOILA!!

The end results ....



How do you straighten your hair?  Try this method and let me know how it works!

Safiya's FAQ

Safiya will serve on the Delaware Naturalistas Panel at "A Natural Hair Love Affair".  If you haven't purchased tickets, purchase them here!  Safiya has a popular YouTube channel...bronzqt.  Check it out for more great tips!

Here she answers Frequently Asked Questions. She covers topics such as her hair type and hair regimen.